Hiked in Snow: 5 Days

Snakes: 35

Shelters Slept In: 48
With my Tent Inside: 6

Bears: 5

Times I Fell: 35

Dams Hiked Across: 2

Moose: 3

Hiked in Crampons: 3 Days

Bald Eagles: 1

Coyotes: 1

AMC Huts Stayed In: 5

Wet Fords: 11

Sobos: 73

States: 14

Off-Trail Miles: 140.55

Injury Days: 23

Toenails Lost: 6

Believe it or not, I have finished my trek … Nov. 10, 2008, 10:08 EST.

Eight months and two days. At times I thought it would never end and now I can’t believe it’s over. It’s been 17 days and I already feel like a man without a country. Call it A.T. withdrawal. Within five hours of getting home, I was bouncing off the walls. So I called a fellow hiker, Berf, and asked him “What can I do?”

“Well, you could walk around the block, but make sure you wait til it rains.” This is an example of “hiker humor.” Hilarious. Me, maybe not so much to the civilian world.

I’ll tell you what wasn’t funny – hiking in Maine. For an orthoplegic like myself, it was all serious business. The state of Maine throws more at the A.T. hikers than perhaps all of the other states combined. In no particular order, here’s what you get.

• Roots, bloody roots. It was like hiking thru and around hard squid tentacles. Not so easy with size 14′s.
  Rocks. Whether wet or covered with snow and ice, their size and scope and numbers made Pennsylvania look like childs play.

• Leaves. Yes leaves. Hiking in the late Fall results in the trail being obliterated by all the leaves. They help cover up all the roots and rocks making each step an adventure.

• Fording. I got lucky. Never had a ford deeper than 3-4″ above my knees. Others who preceded me were not as lucky. But the water was always 35-45 degrees. When the water is in the 30s, your feet feel like they are on fire. When I wasn’t getting wet, I was trying to cross on skinny logs or snow and ice covered boards. Try that sometime when you weigh 210 pounds and are 6 ft tall and are carrying a 40 pound pack.

• Snow and ice. While I only had to endure five days of it, I can tell you this – without proper footwear, it’s a suicide mission. It also helps obscure the trail and hide the white blazes.

“We don’t die, we just multiply … colors, colors.”

Whether it’s wet, dry or covered with snow and ice, Maine is all about the ascents and the descents. Even in the best of conditions, it is the supreme challenge faced by the majority of hikers. I will say this about Maine, if you are lucky enough to have a clear day, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views. And most of those contain little or no signs of civilization.

Despite all of the views, harsh weather, missteps, incredible people, etc., my most enduring Maine memory will always be my bear encounter. On an awesome day in the 100-mile wilderness, I was hikeing thru a tall forest heading South. I made a slight turn to the West and immediately heard something moving on my right. I looked over and there was a black bear, 3-1/2 feet at the hip, “hiking” North. Right next to the trail. He was at most 8 feet from me. Luckily he apparently did not give a rat’s ass about me as he never stopped or so much as turned his head to acknowledge my presence. I however froze in place and made no attempt to dig out my camera. I just watched as this amazing beast lumbered on as I stood there puckering.

Regardless of where you are on the trail in Maine, there is always one constant. You cannot take your eyes off the trail for one minute or one step. If you do, you’re going down. I had to live by this self-made credo, “stop-look-hike.” But sometimes your mind wanders and you glance up. Doing so resulted in me eating dirt 12 times. Sometimes it hurt and sometimes it didn’t but it always pissed me off.

Lastly I want to talk about four incredible hikers that i had the extreme pleasure to hike with and who all helped get me to the finish line.

• Vigil Auntie: Half of a two-woman team, she is in the top one percent of “smart people” that I’ve ever met. Thanks for keeping me sane, grounded and humble. She’s the only human being that I’ve ever said this to … “you’re too logical to argue with.”

• Y: A woman of incredible physical strength and one that possesses a huge heart. After injuring my right knee and my lower back due to yet another fall, she strapped on my 40-pound pack without batting an eye and carried it for eight miles. She and I had two things in common: We were both hiking the A.T., and we both knew who Chad Little was. Thanks Y for opening my eyes and teaching me so much in such a short period of time.

• Stuart Rudolf: I met Stuart on my last Saturday in Maine. The following Wednesday, he rearranges his work schedule, drives two hours in the dark, hikes the last 10 miles in Maine with me, takes me to his home, I meet his family, spend the night, and then he takes me to the airport the next morning. And does this without asking for anything in return. I am humbled by your generosity Stuart. Thank you for showing me the way.

• Barley: After finishing the A.T. with his wife Rain, he volunteers to come back and hike the last 89 miles with me. And then he takes a train on his own dime from Mass. to Penn. Rain didn’t come because every time she saw me on the trail, she threw up. This is without a doubt the greatest gesture anyone has ever made on my behalf (the hiking – not the puking). I will never forget this and from this point forward, I will do the same not just for hikers but for anyone that needs it. Thanks Barley, you are the man.

This snake is giving his friend the frog a ride.

A milder ford.

Harvest and Scout – Beautiful and Gutsy

The Northern Terminus – Kahtadin

The famous Dr. Scanlon.

This is how you feel after 2,000 miles.

It’s 1:30 p.m., and the moon is still visible.

Oh joy … another mountain to climb.

Can you find the white blaze?

Vigil Auntie and Y

Typical Maine Trail

Stuart finishing a ford.

Hell on Bad Wheels with Barley.

Only nine miles to go!!!

The last steps …

My logistics manager – JD Sr.

Nothin’ like beer at 10:15 a.m.

Please read the thanks-you’s. You just might find your name amongst the many mentioned going forward.

I’m still hoping to attain my goal of hiking all eight national scenic trails for charity. But I’m going to need sponsorship help. If you know a company, foundation, etc., that I should talk with, please contact me. If you have ideas on charities, need hiking or equipment information, please contact me, and I’ll be glad to help in any way I can.

10/07/08: “Five to one Baby one to five, no one gets out alive.” Jim Morrison must have written those lyrics after hiking the White Mountains in New Hampshire.

While beautiful at times – when there was no rain – the Whites are rugged. My knees, or at least what’s left of them, were brutalized. And now the hard part starts.

I am 14 miles from the Maine border and 21 miles from the infamous Mahoosuc Notch. The Notch is one mile of house-sized boulders that you have to crawl up, down, and under, and it looks like I’ll be doing it in the rain. Oh joy.

Since my last update, I have continued to meet some incredible people, like George at a shelter in Vermont who makes sure people act right at a shelter near his home.

Chuck and Orla Loper who loaded me up with Cliff bars, soda and water.

Shizuko, who is perhaps the most incredible hiker so far. She hikes all over the world and carries a pack that is only 2 pounds lighter than mine. After meeting her, I felt compelled to finish my hike in a dress! She called me “baby-faced grandpa.” I gave her the trail name “Jiffy Pop” after seeing her sleep under a foil thermal blanket.

And then there was the “Connecticut Four,” a group of women I met in the Whites. Jean, Jennifer, Sherrie, and let’s not forget Dominatrix Debbie who barked orders at me to “hurry up” when I began hiking one morning. Thanks again for the ride ladies.

Healthwise, considering what I am doing, things are good. Biggest issue continues to be the knees.

I am definitely at the tail end of the north bounders. The south bounders are dwindling as well. I am beginning to see the light at the end of the trail, but the hardest miles lay ahead. Keep the well wishes coming, they do matter.

Hiking on!
- Hell on Bad Wheels

Deluxe hiker accomodations

Four peaks

How considerate of the trail maintainers

I thought podunk was mythical

Sadly, it’s not a bar or a band.

A scenic view

Greetings to all from Vermont!

I’m afraid that I have to start this update off with some sad news. I have just received word today that Bob Wells Sr. passed away two weeks ago. I have known the Wells family since 1972 when my family moved to Houston. I have many fond memories of fishing, baseball, and playing tennis with the ultra-competitive Wells clan. Bob was a successful business man, a great father and husband. My prayers and sympathies go out this evening to his wife, Barbara, and sons Bobby, Barry, and Brad.

As for my journey, I am now past 1,500 miles and by the time this update is posted, I will have hiked into New Hampshire. This continues to be an amazing trek. The people, places, history, and of course, the “work.”

There have not been a lot of flat spots the past 400 miles, many ups and downs – mainly ups – and lots of rain, rocks, mud and some pain.

A lot has happened. Here are some of the highlights …

- Stood in Babe Ruth’s old hotel room where he spent most of his life after baseball in Greenwood Lakes, N.Y.

- Watched lightning strike a large tree 35 feet from me, explode and send large chunks of shrapnel landing a few feet away from me.

- Hiked in so much rain, I didn’t see my feet for hours.

- Continue to be on the receiving end of incredible kindness from other hikers, total strangers – rides, free housing, meals and medical care.

- Had my first civilized meal since I started – I even bought a new polo shirt – with a gorgeous woman named Susie, a damn good singer, pianist and flutist as well.

I am on my fifth pair of hiking boots/shoes since leaving Pennsylvania. I’m blistered, bruised, battered, and sore, but onward and upward I trek.

The last 2 1/2 weeks have seen the first influx of Southbound hikers. I have met 38 so far. The Northbound hikers are still at it, but our numbers are dropping.

The most dangerous and roughest part of the trail awaits me beginning with the White Mountains in New Hampshire. If I come out of the Whites in fewer than three pieces, my next update will be in a couple of weeks.

Thanks to the Boyers and Tommy for their donations.

Hiking on.

- “Hell on Bad Wheels”

A zoo on the trail

Deluxe hiker privy

Mayor of Unionville, N.Y.

Half Way to Sanity

Hello from mile 1193. By the time you read this, I’ll be making my way through the NY-NJ corridor. It has been 343 miles since the last update and a lot has transpired. Some of which includes falling six times, lots of rain, one bear, two rattlers, a back injury that took me off the trail for 5 days, foot blisters that took me off for two days, many amazing people and Pennsylvania.

   new when I started

Pennsylvania has been by far the hardest part of the trail to date, and my least favorite. The reasons? Hard to find or a pain in the butt to get water and ROCKS, lots of rocks, tons of rocks more rocks than I saw in the first 1,022 miles of the trail. I have been either climbing up and over garage-sized boulders or hopping from one knife-edged boulder to another. Torn my feet up and my equipment. Busted a tent pole, developed a leak in my air mattress, imploded one hiking boot, busted my third water bladder and trashed both of my hiking poles. Glad to be leaving PA – for both physical and financial reasons.

But a lot of the physical and wallet pain have been offset by the tremendous people I have come across these last 300+ miles.

I’ll start with PETRA. A striking woman from Germany. She is in the U.S. on a vacation/sabbatical. When I emerged from my tent one morning in the Shenandoah National Park, she invited me to her campsite for breakfast. After a 90-minute conversation, she walked me to the trailhead and serenaded me with a beautiful song!

Then there was “Rodeo,” a fellow thru-hiker, and the first woman that I have met from Texas on the trail. She will always be remembered for the quote: “The Tex-Mex we’ve been eating out here is crap.” The pride of Cut-N-Shoot.

Jill B. the ultimate trail angel. A friend to all hikers, she provides shelter, car rides and food to hikers. She even hiked a case of cold beer to a shelter on the trail. Many thanks Jill!!

Fellow hikers MacGyver and Lemur. To date, they are the couple that bicker at each other the least that I have met on the trail. In addition Mac-G has the baddest outdoor skills of any A/T hiker or anyone else I have ever met. I have been hiking with them off and on for the past 800 miles and their assistance has been invaluable.

Lastly, I want to mention the incredible people at Pocono Foot and Ankle Consultants. Dr. Lisa Dadson, Larry Troutman, Gesila Smith, Pat Kelly and Ev Smith. I am forever in their debt for their expertise, generosity and their compassion. I was blessed to meet these fine folks and am forever in their debt for “re-conditioning” my feet and getting me back on the trail.

Okay, one more shout-out. Bobby, a trucker from NJ, had eaten breakfast at the same place that Mac, Lemur and I had. When we walked out, he jumped out of his truck and approached us staying: “I think what you all are doing is great, and I wanna buy your breakfast.” I told him I couldn’t let him do that, but I would take the cash and make a donation to Gilda’s on his behalf. Fine by him. Here’s a guy paying $5.00 a gallon for diesel, and he wants to buy three rag-a-muffin hikers breakfast – everyone should chew on that for awhile.

I’ll see you down the trail.

fungus face

wolf spider

I want to use this blog update to thank some people that have helped me on the trail as I made my way north the past two weeks: Taylor and Brian of Bedford, Va., for carrying my pack uphill for three-quarters of a mile; Mike of Craig, Colo., for giving me a ride to water and telephone; Slayer and Uluru for giving me some electrolytes; and Barley and Rain for volunteering to go with me to bring Fifer down off the mountain after he broke his ankle.

The weather has been “Africa hot,” and the water at times hard to come by when you really need it. My knee is holding up and other parts are status quo.

Photos are posted below. The next update will be after mile 1088 – the HALFWAY point!

Thanks again to all who have pledged.

CU Later,
John

Weather-wise, it seems like the entire month of May it has rained or threatened to every day. However, when the rain stops, the views are incredible.

Physically, the trail is beginning to take its toll. I am in the process of losing three toe nails on my right foot. I have a cracked rib since mile 416, and this past Wednesday (May 28th), I fell on some rocks in the rain. It looks as though I have torn some cartilage in my right knee. I got a ride to Waynesboro to see an orthopedic specialist. He gave me a cortisone shot and a bulky brace. So tomorrow I’ll get back on the trail after two days rest and see if drugs and neoprene can fix the problem.

Thanks to Brad, Myles and Connie for your pledges and getting us over the $11.00 per mile mark.

Audie Murphy Memorial – Only Texans would put a flag here.

I’m looking through a hole in the sky

In the fog at Macafee’s Knob

Looking back up at Dragon’s Tooth

Makin’ miles

Not 15, not 0, but 17 mph.

Punk rock horse at Grayson State Park

Smokey Pig’s t-shirt

Stubborn rat snake

View at top of Dragon’s Tooth

View of the New River

A big “hi ya’ll” from Damascus, Va. 461 miles, 21 percent down and a heck of a long way to go.

I just finished my best stretch to date: 75 miles in 5 days, including a personal best day of 18.3 miles on Thursday. Not sure my “ortho-plegic” body can do 18+ miles a day but for now 14 to 15 seems to be OK.

I have had a couple of equipment issues during the last 190 miles, busted my camel back water hydration system and sleeping bag. My bag was replaced by the manufacturer (Big Agnes – Thanks to Chris at BA for his help.)

Weather has been a little better, fewer rain days. I am starting to see a decrease in traffic on the trail. Folks are starting to drop off.

Some of my fellow hikers have labeled my tent “The McMansion.” Most of them sleep in Hefty bags.

Thanks again to all who have pledged. With your help, I have attained my initial goal of $20,000 and with 5 months left, I am hoping I can get to $30,000. The generosity shown by family, friends, former customers and total strangers has/is teaching me a valuable lesson.

   Waterfall close up

  View from up high

  Trail on the ridge line

 
Strange lights

  Foot bridge

 
Could hop a freight, but I’ll hike it.

Took a break in Gatlinburg, Tenn., which reminded me a lot of the State Fair of Texas, kind of a Bubba Vegas without the gambling.

Better weather for the remaining 35 miles in the GSMNP, some great views and interesting sights ..

i.e. a crawfish at 5,500 feet? Who knew they could hike …

Remnants of a jet fighter crash (F-4) …

and a turkey hiking in the rain on the trail in front of me.

I continue to be the recipient of some great trail magic, thanks to Corkscrew (Seattle), Snowmoe & Crew (Texas and Colorado), and the blessing princess of Hot Springs.

My daily mileage is picking up. I’m now doing 10.5 to 15.5 miles per day. I’ll stick to that pace for a couple weeks before ratcheting up to 17-20.

Healthwise, I am holding together … a few blisters, a black toenail, few aching joings, irritating but nothing that will derail me.

Thanks to all the new pledges from Jim W., Al R., and a huge thanks to John and Loni, for helping me reach my initial pledge goal.

UFO

Strange signs in town

Most of my water comes from springs.

Greetings from the Gimp:

First of all huge thanks to all the new pledgers: Crystal and Chris, Bill and Sue, Daniel, Mitchell, Steve and Judy, Kenneth, Jean, Jon, Susan and Ray, Rob and Paula, Fran and Lew, Anna and Fitz, Lloyd, Don and Suzie, Tracey and Kevin, Loren and Erica, Amy, and David and Jerry.

A very big THANK YOU to Tom and Kimble for your sponsorship help.

Lastly, thanks to JB fo the loaded pod, case, solar juice AND a pledge. Slayer still rules and so do you.

Thought I would post a few notes on a “zero” day of my trek. I am at Fontana Dam, North Carolina. Needed a shower … bad … and some different boots maybe more so. Have been battling blisters on both feet which is why I’m changing boots. I am starting to get my average miles per day above 8 miles. All is OK with knees, etc.

Starting 4/2, I’ll increase the daily average to 10-12 miles a day. Tomorrow, I start into the Smokey Mountains National Forest. It’s bear country with a lot of rules (too many) about where and how you can camp. And we all know how good I am with rules …

More later.